El Taco H

What's it like?

 There are many things I look for when judging taco spots. In addition to the usual stuff like taste of the meat, heat of the salsa and quality of the tortilla, one of my favorite parts of being a taco scavenger is the adventure.

Taco tasting is a bit of a down-and-dirty activity -- or it should be, if done right. That's why I've been intrigued for a while now by what's been described to me as a "taco window" on the Fulton Mall. A taco window is Cilantro Gomez's type of place. For sure.

When a pal proposed it for lunch, he called it a "taco portal." Ol' Cilanto was twice as intrigued. We walked up to the place -- El Taco H, I learned from the not-at-all-flashy sign -- at high noon and didn't have to wait.

The tacos were $1.25 a piece, dished out on doubled-up baby tortillas with lettuce, cilanto and a tangy salsa. There were four or five meat options. My buddy recommended the al pastor. But I always start with carne asada, as I find it to be the most palatable for comparison. 

The tacos themselves were pretty good, but certainly not the best in town. They were sort of greasy, which is great at 2 in the morning, but not always the best at lunch. The meat was fatty in places, but also was tender and tasty. The salsa wasn't too remarkable, though it did enough to complement the taste of the meat. Speaking of compliments: I gotta give a shout out to the bottled Coca Cola for sale. Score!

Still, the most interesting part of this taco spot was the environment. There are a few plastic tables set up in front, which give a view of Chukchansi Park. Plus, there's the running water nearby, surrounding art sculptures and the colorful cast of characters you'll find on the Fulton Mall on any given day.

Does El Taco H have the best tacos in town? No, but it's a fun little lunch jaunt with good enough food. Besides, how often do you get to eat from a literal hole in the wall?

El Taco H is open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., Monday through Friday. It's located at 877 Fulton Mall, where the mall intersects Kern Street.