Reviewed by The Cured Ham on Jul 13, 2011
I’m just going to jump into this one, Max’s Bistro was a night of extremes.
Horrible: Pathetically pale olive oil for the table that resembled vegetable oil with dry herbs. Whatever poor excuse for an olive oil is being used to dip a high quality bread in, please either remove it or pay the extra money to provide a reasonable product.
Delicious: Crispy, well-seasoned truffled potato fries and standard sweet potato fries. Positively wonderful. The truffle fries are some of the best I’ve ever had.
Horrible: Undercooked beets for my beet salad. Undercooked means that it took about the same amount of force to pierce the side of the beet as it would a raw potato.
Horrible: Old, brown romaine lettuce for the Caesar salad and 3 home-made croutons. There must have been ‘crouton rationing” and a lettuce surplus in the pantry.
Delicious: Gorgonzola mashed potatoes.
Good: Rib-eye steak cooked medium-rare as requested, but under-seasoned.
Horrible: Mixed vegetables that included over cooked squash (read mooshy)and brownish tinged green beans. Oh, I tried the vegetables. Luckily, we eat with our eyes first.
Outstanding: Savory amaranth bread pudding. This might have been better than the fries frankly. I would love to cook this for Thanksgiving one year. Brilliant.
Good: Lamb chops and cooked medium rare.
Fine: Commercial Andouille sausage that was awfully spicy. Don’t know if a really spicy sausage makes sense in this mixed grill. It kills the wine your drinking and seems to clash with a delicate quail.
Horrible: Quail. Dry as a bone.
Lazy: Penne with house-made Bolognese. The Bolognese was loose, real loose, near liquid with no viscous consistency to stick to the pasta. The pasta was cooked fine, but the sauce was a disappointment. Awfully sweet sauce as well. Not a classic Italian sauce by any stretch and yes, I’m hyper critical about this sauce.
Highlight of the Night: Halibut with potato cake and spinach. Overall, this one dish was the highlight of the night. Each aspect of the dish was well constructed and prepared. The fish had a lovely golden color to the outside top and was moist in the center. The potato cake was well seasoned and finished with a golden brown and crispy top. The spinach was simply wilted and brightened up the plate.
Service was friendly. The real hitch came near the end of the evening and the obvious closing and side-work period around 9:30. Our table wasn’t completely cleared when all parties had finished their meals. Lights started shutting off and some tables are left without being bussed in our section. I know servers what to go home, but don’t shut the lights out in the main dining room please, until we decide to get up and leave.
So the final analysis is about as confused as the outcomes that evening. The “fry guy” should get a raise. Whoever is preparing salads might need to take a refresher course on how long it takes to cook beets and what the color brown indicates on lettuce. Quail is not cooked like a chicken wing. Finally, who cooked the halibut and where was this person when the other dishes were being prepared?
I just don’t know. I’d like to go back. I ate some really great stuff. But will I get the fry guy or the salad guy who prepares my next meal?
Comments
Dale White (not verified) | Wed, 2011-07-13 22:02
I could make a meal out of those truffle fries. They coat them in corn starch before they fry them...that creates the texture...
Godogs21 | Thu, 2011-07-14 11:37
I recently ate here with my wife and the artist of the restaurants son. The couple we ate with are lovers of Max's, I am not.
Here's what we had
1) the filet mignon ( nice and tender like it should be, au gratin looked burnt, that wasn't coming anywhere near me.)
2) the sweet potato fries and truffle fries (good but some were way too hard and the truffle fries were greasy)
3) calamari ( good but not memorable)
4) halibut (I had a bite, it was cooked real nice but heavy on the salt)
5) chocolate lava cake ( Duh)
6) Ravioli special ( this is what I ordered and it was disgusting. Roasted chicken with mozzarella inside, sounded good at the time. The sauce was heavy and the dough was thick, pasty and inedible. I ended up opening them and just said screw it. Everyone told me not to order that but if it's a special on the menu it should be special and it was especially nasty. Take it off the menu immediately. Disgraceful!
The one thing I really didn't enjoy was the waitress. She had no clue about the menu. She said the ravioli had roasted chicken on the side. Well when she told me it didn't was when she delivered it to my table. I don't complain at restaurants but I took note of her inexperience.
I think Max's tries too hard and mostly under delivers. I rarely go because of bad lunches in the past. If you claim homemade soups and all I get is flour from the roux, that's amateur. It's hard to tell if the chef is in charge or just some guy delivering food from his house.
I know a lot of people love Max's but I've yet to be impressed. If friends invite us I will go but I probably will never recommend this place or do the inviting.
RL (not verified) | Thu, 2011-07-14 17:29
I'm really curious Ham, what is 5 star ambiance in the land of the Cured? I am starting to rate all high end restaurants in Fresno as 4s because I miss carpet killing sound. What do you look for in how you rate that aspect?
The Cured Ham | Fri, 2011-07-15 22:14
5 Stars in Fresno is frankly not possible at this point in time. I was stretching a little with my 4 Star Max's rating. I would like to do 1/2 star ratings as I believe Max's is 3 1/2 stars ambiance. They have art on the walls, I'm not eavesdropping on the table next to me, the room was void of off-putting smells, empty tables were fully set. But it's not intimate. It really bright. But it's not Boulevard in San Francisco. It's not Gary Danko.
As an example of 5 Star ambiance, it's tough to beat the Lodge at Crater Lake for instance. It's a classic Western lodge with one of the best views ever, in addition to most of the pomp of a big city restaurant at the table, yet still a bit folksy. Extra points for the view. Another extreme might be Bix in San Francisco. Huge murals, intimate lighting, well dressed staff, wood paneling and all the trimming of a classic supper club. But not a single window in the place. The "view" is the place. It's the atmosphere. It's the 3 piece jazz band. It's the warm booths on the second floor.
I like the question and since I've already talked about service and food, maybe ambiance should be another feature.